MOBILE REPAIRING

Nokia 3220 Mic Microphone Ways Problem

2009-12-22T10:44:00.000-08:00

Here Are The Solutions. Please Observe Carefully.

3220 Mic Microphone Ways Problem 1

3220 Mic Microphone Ways Problem 2

If you have further Questions please don’t hesitate to ask me.

You can use this help for all kind of mobiles phones like t mobile, virgin mobile, nextel phone, mobile albama, mobile home and boost mobiles efficiency for yourself. We Will also post Cell phone reviews shortly. We will cover Nokia, Samsung, Sony Ericsson and Motorola Cell Phones.

Original iPhone Dock Teardown

2009-12-22T10:00:00.000-08:00

Steps

Step 1 — Teardown

The Original iPhone dock!
This dock only holds the original iPhone. It will not hold the iPhone 3G/3GS as it is wider and thicker.

Step 2

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to weaken the adhesive holding the rubber foot to the dock.
Use a razor blade or flathead screwdriver to pull up part of the rubber foot.
While still hot, pull the rubber foot off the dock.

Step 3

Using a spudger or a flat head screwdriver, release the 6 clips holding the dock to the white plastic molding.
You will need to pry this out as the dock contains a weight that is stuck to the top casing with adhesive.

Step 4

Heat up the adhesive that covers the three screws, so you can unscrew the screws that hold the weight in the base of the dock.

Step 5

Remove the 3 screws holding the weight to the bottom plate.

Step 6

The dock should look like this.
If not, go back and see what you did wrong.

Step 7

Now remove the green logic board from the little plastic pegs on the bottom plate.
There is one peg under each black foam padding.

Step 8

The little white things in the red circle are the pegs.
Gently use a spudger or flathead screwdriver to pry the logic board from the bottom plate.
Be very careful, as you could break the board doing this.
Step 9
- Once done separating the logic board from the bottom plate, you should have 2 parts.
Step 10
- Disassembly is now complete. You will have five separate parts as shown in the picture.
Step 11
- Boom! Your done. It took me 32 minutes to figure this out with out damaging the dock.
- I can do it in 3 minutes now that I've mastered the process.
- If you don't replace the white top cover of the dock when reassembling, you will have a universal dock, that can also be used with an iPhone 3G/3GS.
- It will also work with any iPod with a 30 pin connector.

Bluetrek Skin Teardown

2009-12-22T09:59:00.001-08:00

Step 1 — Teardown

It puts the lotion on its skin... Or else it gets the hose again.
In the last photo, I'm removing the removable ear clip. Don't worry, it gets better.

Step 2

Pretty simple here, just work a small blade around the seam to pop the latches.
You could probably use a spudger, but I didn't have one.

Step 3

We're in!
Nothing exciting on the underside of the top shell. Still no dermal tissue.

Step 4

The whole board just lifts out.

Step 5

The microphone is held in with a bit of hot glue.
Just push the rubber part covering the microphone from the outside and it'll pop right out.

Step 6

Sadly, the earpiece is a bit less willing to part with the casing.
I haven't figured out a way yet to get it out without breaking something, and I still want to use this headset.

Step 7

And we now present, a battery.
There's a nice RoHS sticker there, suggesting it contains hazardous substances (couldn't possibly be referring to the combustibility of Li-ion batteries, could it?). Better not open it.
The battery is held in place with a weak adhesive. Just pop it off with your fingers.

Step 8

And now, some obligatory close-ups of the circuit board.
- The identity of chip in the center of the board (second photo, in the red square) has eluded me for quite a while. The logo appears to read "CSI" but it actually turns out to be "csr". Given the size and mounting, it's probably a BlueCore4 series (not sure of the exact model).
  - This one chip handles pretty much everything. It contains the radio, baseband, and microcontroller. It runs off 1.8V to 3.6V controlled by an integrated voltage regulator. It supports v2.0+ EDR and can coexist with nearby 802.11 (WiFi) networks. It can even work directly with up to 8Mbit flash memory (according to the specifications, given the 8x8mm size of the package (mind out of the gutter please), it's likely external to the chip).
- There could be something under the board the main chip is mounted on, but I don't have a way to get to it.
- This was a lot easier to identify. It's an antenna.
  - It's a "Fractus Slim Reach Xtend™ Bluetooth Wireless Headset Antenna", designed to also support 802.11b/g/n (basically anything in the 2.4Ghz range). It is tiny, only 7x3x1mm. It's not a particularly efficient antenna (rated at >50% radiation efficiency), but it was probably chosen for size. It's still a good one, I can be on the side of the house opposite of my phone and still have good reception.
  - For only 1mm thicker, Bluetrek could have used the more efficient "Compact Reach Xtend™", with a radiation efficiency rating of >70%.
- There's a few mentions of Innovi on the board. At the time of this writing, Innovi's website seems to be down. From what I've gathered off of Google, Innovi might be either Bluetrek's old name or their parent company.

Silly Phone Contraption

2009-12-22T09:56:00.000-08:00

Subtitle: You want your cell phone to do what?!!

NOTE: This is the (now obsolete) Mark I gadget. The latest and greatest gadget in this saga can be found here.

Motivation
Electronics
Mechanical
Lesson
Things To Do
References

Motivation

This story started with me wanting to get rid of my landline and go with just a prepaid cell that could easily be 3 or 4 times cheaper (since I make about 5 minutes of calls a year :-).

I got a Virgin Mobile phone to see how the plan would work, and it quickly became apparent there was a flaw. If I don't actually tote the phone around with me everywhere, I can't hear the ring tone (especially with the television on).

I started a search for a ring tone amplifier (or some such gadget) that would work with my phone, and while there are upwards of 4 billion hits for regular phones, it quickly became apparent that no such thing seemed to exist for cell phones (unless you want to count all the movies where terrorists set off bombs using cell phones, but blowing things up seemed like a bit more notification than I wanted even though I have no doubt I can find cell phone detonator plans on the internet more easily than cell phone ring amplifiers - but before the FBI comes around, I hasten to add that I didn't actually look :-).

I did find this pen/cell phone ring detector, and started thinking about hacking one apart to get to the signal that lights the LED. It then occurred to me that it would be nice to keep it in working condition so I could use it more normally sometimes, and I thought about just detecting the LED flashing. But I soon realized, my "Flasher V7" phone (otherwise known as an Audiovox 8910) has a front display with a backlight that comes on when there is an incoming call, it seemed obvious that one way to meet my criteria for a ridiculous ring detector would be to notice the phone display lighting up and forget the pen detector. For fun, I got one of the pens anyway, but the range is not too good. Anything more than about 2 inches away, and the pen detector doesn't notice the phone. Even with the phone and the pen in my shirt pocket, the phone can be too far away to set off the pen. With both the phone and the pen next to each other on the desk, I also noticed that sometimes the pen goes off for no apparent reason (I guess the phone is contacting the cell tower or something). I'd definitely put the pen in the category of a novelty, not a particularly useful item.

Electronics

Anyway, since idle hands are the devil's workshop, and when I'm on vacation I try to be as idle as possible, I soon found myself poking around among the electronic junk in my back room and asking myself: "What is the most ridiculous possible way to build a ring notifier with the junk I have lying around here?"

I found a small photocell and an LM324 op-amp chip. Even more dangerous, I found an application note for the LM324 showing how to use it as a photocell amplifier.

I envisioned a small box with a cradle I could leave the phone in while I'm at home with my Rube Goldberg light detector built into it and some sort of contraption to make lots of noise (but not an explosion) when the phone lights up. Another advantage is that I'll always leave my phone in the same place, so I won't forget where it is. If I keep the gadget near an electrical outlet, I can plug in the charger too. (So I clearly need to design the cradle to leave room for the hole in the phone where the charger plugs in - something to remember if I get that far).

Anyhow, before I can get finished, I have to get started. I dug my trusty breadboard rig out from under several layers of junk, started plugging in wires, and was soon able to demonstrate that the sample op-amp circuit really did work. I could hide the photocell under a little cap and get a few millivolts output, or remove the cap and get 3 or 4 volts output on the other side of the op-amp. All very nice, but I'm going to want to use this to switch things on and off, so a nice true/false kind of signal with square edges would probably be more desirable. A little more scrounging around the back room came up with a 7413 schmitt trigger nand gate, and gave me the first chunk of my circuit:

The square edges are nice, but I'm going to want to make noise long enough to notice once the phone lights up, and I'll want to "debounce" any effect of flickering light, not to mention that the Rube Goldberg principle requires me to add extra circuits even if they turn out not to be needed. Since my junk pile includes a 555 timer chip, and since the trigger for a 555 timer is a negative going edge, and since that's what comes out of my nand gate, the universe is practically demanding that I throw in a 555 timer circuit to stretch the signal out and invert it back to a +5 while I'm at it (there may also be a federal statute requiring all hobbyist circuits to include at least one 555 timer chip :-). I also happen to have some big capacitors lying around from repairing an old motherboard a while back, so they are the ideal candidate to give me a nice long signal from the following 555 "monostable" timer circuit:

If I hook the output from the schmitt trigger in circuit 1 to the trigger input of the 555 in circuit 2, I get a little less than 20 seconds of steady +5 volt output from the output of the 555 when the photocell gets lit up (however briefly). I didn't pick 20 seconds - it picked me. I just plugged in random resistors together with the 1500 uF capacitor I happened to have until what seemed like a reasonable time showed up. No doubt a smaller capacitor and bigger resistor could achieve the same thing with less energy drain, but this was the first combo that worked well for me.

I still don't know what I'm gonna make noise with, but all this time I've sort of had the idea I'd like to use an old-fashioned electro-mechanical bell and clapper (just a small one - not an 18 inch fire alarm bell or anything like that). If I go with something like that, I'll obviously need to trigger a relay. My junk pile failed me on relays, so I bought a small 5 volt relay at Radio Shack (part number 275-240). Perhaps the 555 could drive the relay directly, perhaps not, but with some 2N2222 transistors lying about back in the trusty junk pile, why not add a relay driver circuit while I'm at it?

Adding this additional junk to my breadboard demonstrates that it also works. I can hear the relay click (and watch the resistance go from infinite to zero) when I light up the photocell, and 20 seconds later it clicks off. If I wait till it is dark outside and turn off all the lights, I can even demonstrate that the thing clicks on when I light up my cell phone and hold it over the photocell (a good thing after doing all this work). Unfortunately, a relay click is even less audible than the ring tone on the phone. It is time to search for my ideal noise source.

I go online to places like homedepot.com, no old fashioned bells. I expand my search with google and find several bells that are just what I want if only I lived in Great Britain. I check a few local hardware stores, but no dice. Apparently, metal clanging on metal is no longer appreciated in the United States :-).

My first choice denied me, I just wandered about the local Home Depot keeping my eyes open for ideas, and I spotted the collection of wireless doorbells they sell. The kind of bell I wanted to use has sometimes been used as a doorbell. A doorbell should be designed to be loud enough to hear, and closing a relay is a lot like pushing a button, so I ought to be able to hack the push button to substitute my relay (if I'm careful and don't break it completely). The wireless doorbell has the additional advantage that I can keep the noisemaker in one place (near the center of the house so I can hear it from anywhere) and the phone gadget somewhere else (closer to where I'm likely to be sitting if the phone rings). I decide to buy the model with 64 different tunes (on the off chance that at least one of them won't be utterly insipid) and the dual buttons (for front and back door), so if I break one, I'll have another to hack after getting practice in what not to do.

I get it home and take apart one of the buttons, and find myself mystified. The actual button is a little black cube with 4 leads. What kind of push button needs 4 leads I wonder? Nevertheless, I start poking around with a piece of wire, and determine that shorting out either pair of diagonally opposite leads on the button results in the doorbell chime going off. I don't even have to break anything because there is enough lead sticking out that I can just solder a couple of small wires to one pair, and leave everything else in the button assembly undisturbed. Having added my wires to the button, I plugged them into the breadboard across the normally open relay connectors, removed the cover from the photocell, and "Dong!", my wireless doorbell went off! Once again, I waited till dark, and tried it with the cell phone backlight, and once again, the doorbell went off. I had successfully constructed a hack that could tell me when my phone rings!

Since this is a camera phone, I might as well take some pictures of the setup at this point. This is final breadboard with the doorbell wired into the relay:

This is a close-up of the photocell with the improvised cover in place (a small piece of tubing with some foil taped over one end:

And here is what the photocell looks like without the cover:

Mechanical

Now, before I can declare my independence from Bell South, I need to turn the breadboard into a finished product. I'll have to rig some kind of cradle for the phone that excludes ambient light and just illuminates the photocell with the phone display backlight. Thinking about it, I also realize that I'll want to make sure the system is deactivated when the phone isn't in the cradle, or it will probably be going off all the time I'm trying to talk. Probably will want to have an "arming" switch to keep things quiet when the phone isn't in the cradle (any kind of microswitch to notice the phone in the cradle is probably getting too ticky for me). From electrical engineering, I need to move on to mechanical engineering if I am to produce a fully functional gadget.

All sorts of silly ideas swirled through my head. One of my favorites was getting a couple of pieces of nesting pipe that I could rotate to close up the hole I drop the phone in, but any kind of hole I drop the phone in is always gonna have a problem with the charging cable getting in the way. In the end, I decided a simple form fitting depression I could lay the phone in face down should work if I have something like a felt or soft plastic gasket to fit around the face closely and keep out ambient light. That would leave the tail end of the phone exposed (not to mention the antenna) so I could plug in the charger easily. Even this simple idea leaves room for flights of fancy. Could the phone stand the heat in a vacuum form machine to make a mold of the face? (If I could find a vacuum form machine). Could I do a plaster cast? How about painting it with wax to make a mold for a lost wax casting of the perfect cradle in bronze? All very silly. In the end I realized the simplest available low tech custom molding technique is good old fashioned paper mache (Hey! Grammar school arts and crafts actually comes in handy... :-). A little plastic wrap to protect the phone from wet paper and glue, and I should be able to produce a nice tight fitting mold to keep the light out in no time. If I glue a some cardboard ribs to it, it should be stiff enough to support the phone.

Here's the result of five or six layers of newspaper and watered down carpenter's glue, not yet fully dry or trimmed:

I'll give this overnight to get fully dry, but I should mention that one of those new Glad disposable plastic containers makes a great thing to mix paper mache paste in (as long as you have lots and lots of newspaper around when it splashes).

Anyway, here is the shell dried and trimmed sitting on the small plastic box I found that should hold everything after a bit more mechanical engineering:

And here we have the box top cut out, the shell mounted, and a felt pad added to help cut off the light. Also added a groove to the top of the box so there is room for the charger plug when the phone is in the shell:

Lesson

So, everything is finished, the circuit board all soldered up, everything in the box, completely done! Unfortunately, it doesn't work. Even though I was able to make it work by pointing the phone at it at night, clearly the conditions are different in the actual box as constructed. Measuring the output from the op-amp with the phone in the shell shows the voltage barely flicker when the backlight is on, and it never hits anything like the level needed to trigger the rest of the circuit. The lesson is that I should obviously have constructed the shell and tested the photocell with the phone under actual conditions before committing to the whole design.

Obviously it is time to see about a different detector, which perhaps I can wedge into my existing circuit without too much trouble (since a minor mod to the board would be a lot simpler than building a new one).

Another component I had in my junk pile when I started was a photoresistor which has almost as big a face as the display on the phone. Perhaps I can adapt things to use it. The first thing to do is make some experiments to see what sort of performance I can expect. Wrapping the phone and the resistor in several layers of black plastic trash bag with just the resistor leads punched through reveals that the resistor does a very impressive imitation of an open circuit in absolute darkness, and then drops down to about 80K ohms when I turn the phone light on. That's the best I can expect, but to avoid making the same mistake again, I should try the resistor in the shell I already have. I just need to make a couple of small holes for the leads to fit.

Did that, and I'm impressed. With the phone plugged tightly in the shell, I once again get something that looks like an open circuit. Even when I shine a powerful flashlight around at in various different directions, I still stay at least 2 M (and for that the light has to come from under the shell - an unlikely direction for light to leak in if the box is closed.) When I turn the phone light on, the resistance drops to about 280 K (which isn't as low as the plastic bag experiment, thus demonstrating the value of real world tests).

If I don't plug the phone in tight (which is a little difficult since the shell got stiffer after everything was epoxied into the box), the resistance is about 2 - 4 M with the phone just sitting on top blocking most of the light. When I turn the light on, I get about 290 K, so there is still a large change in resistance with the light on or off.

Now I just need to figure out how use this resistance change to translate into something that I can feed the op-amp without a lot of changes in the rest of the circuit (Oh No! I need to understand a little bit about what I'm doing!). I dredged up distant memories of a wheatstone bridge being used to measure resistance changes from EE classes, and looked it up on google to refresh my memory. The LM324 can be used to amplify a voltage differential, which is what I'll have across the center of the bridge, and that voltage will vary if one of the arms is the photoresistor, so I may have a way to salvage most of my existing circuit board. Breadboarding up the wheatstone bridge circuit (this time with the photoresistor actually mounted in the shell and in the breadboard circuit so I can test under actual conditions), I come up with the following substitute detector:

The breadboard circuit successfully generates a large enough voltage to trigger the schmitt trigger when the light is on, and sits there at almost zero with the light off. I even tried shining a flashlight around, and no false alarms. Time to add the resistors to the circuit board and wire in the new detector.

Unfortunately, when actually connected to a schmitt trigger chip, the LM324 doesn't work (instead of about 5 V output I see about .6 V). My feeble brain obviously doesn't understand something about the characteristics of the 7413 chips. So, forget the 7413. I yanked it out of the socket, and ran some wires to the breadboard (plugged into the pins of the old 7413 socket) and hooked up a regular old 7400 nand gate chip. By golly, that actually works right (well, "right" might be a little strong, but it does function as desired anyway).

So, with the phone in the shell, if I turn on the light, the relay triggers as expected. I also tried plugging in the phone charger, and verified that the little red LED that lights up while the phone is charging does not trigger the relay (which is a good thing, as I wouldn't want the alarm to go off just because I am charging the phone). I think my third variation actually works OK. Now all I need to do is desolder all the leads to the 7413 socket and convert it to a 7400 socket by reconnecting things appropriately. (No doubt this whole process would be much more efficient if I knew what I was doing :-).

While I was playing with this, I also measured the current this whole thing draws, and it appears to be around 5.5 mA normally, and 130 mA when the relay is active. Since Duracell's web site has a graphof typical service hours with the lowest load being 10 mA, I guess 5.5 isn't too bad. I'll see how long the batteries actually last in practice.

After getting everything put together, the circuit board modified, and all pieces soldered in (testing very carefully at each stage), I learned one more lesson: Cadmium sulfide photoresistors are really really sensitive to heat! The very last thing I did was shorten the leads to the photoresistor and solder them on. Apparently I killed the photoresistor during the soldering (that probably explains why they have such long leads on them). Fortunately, I had another resistor around, not as big, and the resistance doesn't drop as much as the original one, but it still works fine with the rest of the circuit. I soldered it at the very tip of the leads, and added a big alligator clip as a heat sink while soldering. Fortunately, I got this one in without destroying it.

So, it is all finished (until I decide I want to make more mods). Here's the finished box:

and the box opened to see the circuit board:

and the circuit board lifted to see the battery and doorbell remote hidden in the bottom compartments of the box:

Things To Do

The most obvious flaw with my current design is the location of the "armed" toggle switch in the circuit. I put it on the relay to prevent it from triggering when the circuit is disarmed (which is good to do when the phone isn't in the box, otherwise it is going off all the time). The problem with this is that the 555 timer goes off anyway, so if I flip the switch to armed soon after putting the phone in, it sounds the doorbell anyway. I should have put it in series with the photoresistor. That way, when it is disarmed, it would look like an infinite resistance was in place (i.e. total darkness), and I wouldn't need to worry about anything else (that would also probably make sure the minimum power is being sucked from the batteries when it is disarmed). [Actually, I went ahead and did this - it was too simple for too much benefit, and it does work much better now].

Adjusting the 555 timer would probably be good as well. My original plan of running a bell needed the 20 seconds, but for just simulating pushing a doorbell, something like 1/10 of a second would make more sense (and draw less power in the long run). If the time were shorter, I probably wouldn't notice the arming switch problem either.

The box also needs work. It is just hinged at one edge, so if I'm not careful, it falls open when I pick it up. I need a pin or a screw or something to hold it closed better. It might be nice to keep the circuit board and battery holder from rattling around so much as well.

Of course, all these adjustments reduce the fundamental Rube Glodbergness of the device, so I'm leaving it as it is for now.

References

By the way, in case you are wondering, the circuit diagrams were generated with and the postscript file it produces was rendered into a jpeg image with . All running on a Fedora Core 3 system (Gimp comes with fedora, and xcircuit only took about 10 minutes to download, build, and install). The photos and sound file were downloaded off the phone using bitpim with a cable for a LG-VX6000 from Radio Shack and USB drivers from futuredial.com.

Also in case you are wondering why the circuits make no sense, I'd just like to say I have no idea what I'm doing. These are just the results of cut & paste operations from bits of circuits I found in books or on the internet interpolated with dim memories of various EE classes from long ago (though not far away - they were just down the road at FAU :-).

And, as long as I'm giving links, I obviously need to take this opportunity to point you at my home page where you will find earth saving political ideas as well as ways to keep your computer's clock set right :-).

Mark II Cell Phone Ring Detector

2009-12-22T09:53:00.000-08:00

Introduction

It all started innocently enough with my plan to drop my BellSouth land line service and go cell only (since I have a cable internet connection, I don't need the phone for that). Unfortunately I found that I had to keep the cell phone with me at all times, or I couldn't hear it from across the house, thus the cell phone ring detector project was born.

Circuits

The following circuits are presented in a logical order (unlike the way they were designed) from initial power-up to the frills tacked onto the end of the project. A less organized and more stream of consciousness version of the Mark II design can be found here, this is the sanitized and organized version.

Some general changes since the Mark I include the switch to 9 volt operation (so I can just use a single battery which fits in the 9V battery compartment of the box I decided to use) and the switch to a TLC3704 voltage comparator chip (a very low power CMOS version of an LM339) instead of a LM324 op-amp.

Power-Up Delay

One of the (obvious once I finally thought of it) improvements over the Mark I was the change to actually disconnect the batteries when I don't have the phone in the system, thus saving lots of battery power while I'm not at home and the phone isn't in the Mark II. To prevent accidental triggering of the detector during the initial power-up period when capacitors are charging and the photo resistor is stabilizing, I needed to make sure nothing drastic happens for a few seconds after the power comes on. This circuit does that by holding the 555 timer reset pin low while powering up.

Light Detector

The Mark I and Mark II both operate by noticing when the phone display lights up (which happens on incoming calls). The circuits are fairly similar in both, but I'm using the TLC3704 chip now, and one important change was the addition of resistor R8 to provide some hysteresis in the circuit so it doesn't accidentally trigger after the photo resistor has already been lit up and is now going back to dark. (I also needed to tweak R8 a little - after everythng was together I found the detector failed intermittently and decided I was getting a little too much feedback. The 390K value here is the final version and works much better than the initial 100K value I used in the original design).

Timer

I had all kinds of plans for different things to use for notification of the phone lighting up when I was planning the Mark I, but eventually settled on simulating a push of a wireless doorbell button. Since that is what I'm also doing in the Mark II, there is no need for the button to be pushed for very long, so the timing components were adjusted to give about 3/10ths of a second. The reset pin here is also where the new power-up delay circuit connects.

Relay

Nothing much has changed in the relay driver circuit, but I did add resistor R11 to prevent the 5V relay I'm using from getting blowed up by the new 9V power supply.

Memory

Now we enter brand new territory for the Mark II. The fact that the TLC3704 had 4 comparators and I was only using 2 of them led me to seek out wacky new features I could add to use up the other two comparators. One obvious feature missing from the Mark I was a way to know if a call came in while I was gone. The first thing I need is a way to remember that single bit of information, so here is a single bit of memory implemented with some transistors to make a flip-flop (which is set by the output from the 555 timer) and one of the TLC3704 comparators to drive the memory output line from the state of the flip-flop.

I had a simpler circuit when I was using the LM339, which I adapted from the "or-gate" sample in the National Semiconductor spec sheet, but feeding back the output as one of the inputs didn't work for the TLC3704 (apparently the power up state of the outputs is high, so the old circuit immediately turned on at power up).

LED Flasher

Continuing the new circuitry, the second part of missed call notification is (obviously) a flashing LED that comes on when the memory does. This is from the National Semiconductor application notes where they show how to use the LM339 as a pulse generator. I played with the resistors and capacitors till the flash rate looked reasonable (turned out to be about 2 HZ) and I ran the +9V connections from the memory output (the TLC3704 outputs provide enough current to drive the flasher just fine). Now I can find out if I missed a call without all the work of picking up a 3 oz. phone and checking the display :-).

This complete collection of circuits draws about 0.3mA when just sitting there waiting to see the light. That should do much better than the mark I on battery life (in the same state, it was something like 5mA, so the mark II draws around 15 times less current). The current goes up once the LED flasher starts operating (I can't really measure it very well since it fluctuates faster than my multi-meter responds as the capacitor charges and discharges). The 4 AA batteries in the mark I lasted about a month. I hope to see much longer than a month once I get the mark II into operation.

Mechanical

I found the perfect box in the back room. It was an old broken down frequency counter (when taking it apart to evaluate it for this project, I noticed all the traces peeling off the circuit board, which probably explains why it wasn't working :-). It already has a little compartment for a 9 volt battery (one of the reasons for the switch to 9 volts in the design). The box (with a life size cutout of the pcboard on top) looks like:

I went with a fairly simple design where the phone merely rests face down on a flat surface. The photo resistor is sunk into a shallow hole in the surface where the display light can shine on it. A short distance away on the same surface, a microswitch is mounted with a lever action long enough that the weight of the phone turns the switch on. I merely have to set the phone in place, and the switch activates the circuit, and picking it up turns everything off. The wireless doorbell is glued to the outside so I can get to the battery in it as easily as the 9 volt battery in the main box. A couple of additional holes for the led pins, and I have my flashing call notifier visible near the base of the phone. Here are the pictures of the final completed unit:

PC Board

$51 (or $59 if you add in shipping) seemed too reasonable a price to pass up, so after spending a lot of time manually transferring the CadStar Express PC board layout to the ExpressPCB program, fiddling with the traces to get them just right, checking the board against the schematic and the schematic against the breadboard, I've sent off my board design to have PC boards made for me. Here's the top and bottom copper layers as well as the silkscreen (but for $51 I don't get the silkscreen actually printed on the board :-).

The boards showed up today, and they look just like the design. Here are scans of the top and bottom of one of them:

After a couple of evenings work with a soldering iron (and discovering that I had D4 and D5backwards in my original circuit diagram - the flasher diagram above has been fixed :-), here's the populated board setup for testing:

P.S. I suppose it would be just as correct to say I had resistors R20 and R21 swapped, but since I already had them soldered into the board it was simpler to reverse the diodes than unsolder and swap the resistors.

This all went into service with a slightly used 9 volt battery on March 14, 2005 - the only thing left to do if find out how long the battery lasts (hopefully more than the 1 month of the Mark I design).

References

This Voltage Comparator Information And Circuits web page from Rob Paisley's web site made me realize that a comparator was exactly what I wanted rather than an op-amp.

National Semiconductor's LM339 Product Folder has pointers to the .pdf spec sheet where I found some of the sample circuits that I used above.

Bill Bowden's example circuits also provided some valuable tricks (especially the one about how to turn a long low pulse into a short one to trigger a 555 timer).

Andrew Holme on the sci.electronics.basics news group helped me debug the problem I was having with my original circuit being so sensitive that it triggered when I didn't want it to (the feedback resistor to provide hysteresis was the key).

Robert Monsen on the sci.electronics.basics news group provided the flip-flop circuit I needed for memory when my original circuit didn't work with the TLC3704.

I've been doing PCB design with Zuken's Cadstar Express (which is a bit complicated to learn, but has features that make it worth the effort such as automatic layout and routing tools). I obviously can't add any more features to the Mark II because I've hit the 50 component limit of the free version of Cadstar Express :-).

Despite using Cadstar Express for the design work, I transferred the design to Express PCB so they could make custom PC boards for me. Also, all the schematics above were done with the schematic tool from Express PCB. Fortunately I was able to start with the layout Cadstar built for me when using Express PCB (which does not have any automatic layout or routing features).

Texas Instruments makes the TLC3704, which is a work-alike for the LM339, but uses much less power and has "push-pull" outputs that let me get rid of the pull-up resistors in the design (therefore using even less power).

Paul Jones alerted me to this product which may actually be the commercial version of my gadget that people keep asking me for (I haven't tried one, and have no idea if it really works, it certainly isn't clear to me if it works for incoming calls or just for text messages).

NuukiaWorld project

2009-12-22T09:52:00.000-08:00

NuukiaWorld project
Adding an answer/end call button to a headset

The original Nokia headset for the 5100/6100 series is equipped with a button on the microphone. The button may be used to answer an incoming call and to end a call. Unfortunately all headsets do not have such button. The target in this project is to install the button to a headset.
An answer/end call button is quite useful. When you previously kept the automatic answer function activated in the headset profile, you may have missed some calls. For example in noisy environment when your earphone has been dropped from the ear: Instead of a regular call, your "enemies" have been listened your secret conversations after the automatic answering. Also it is useful that you can control the answering manually, especially in situations where you are not ready to talk immediately.
It is quite impressing that the button is missing in so many headsets. It is very simple component in the headset circuit, in fact it is just only a button with no extra components. So it is easy to be installed afterwards, as described in the following paragraphs.
WARNING! Although the author has tested these circuits, no guarantee can be given for the operation or compatibility. If you do not understand the purpose of a single component in these circuits, do not build these devices. You are doing everything at your own risk.

Headset Interface
The main internal connections of the headset interface in Nokia 5100/6100 series phones are shown in the figure 1. The phone pulls XMIC input up with about 50 kilo-ohm resistance. (The AUXOUT pin is normally at high-impedance.)
Connecting the headset to phone causes the microphone itself pull down the XMIC pin (microphone has a low DC resistance). The processor ASIC "MAD" detects the low level at its HeadDet input and the phone switches to the headset profile.
During a call the baseband audio ASIC "COBBA" outputs a 1.5 V DC from its AUXOUT output pin. This biases the headset microphone into its working area. The AC signal generated by the microphone is received by COBBA with its headset microphone input MIC1. (With a car kit COBBA uses other inputs called MIC3 that does not contain a microphone preamplifier.)
COBBA outputs the sound with it accessory audio output HF. The HF output drives the headset earphone directly. However, the DC level of the XEAR pin is high because the low-resistance earphone must be separated with a capacitor from the phone. The phone pulls up the DC level of XEAR with 47 kilo-ohm resistance. Note that in the headset shown in figure 1, the earphone return is connected to the logic ground (GND, 9) of the phone, not to the audio signal ground (SGN, 4). According to Nokia's documentation it should be connected to the SGND. However, this difference does not affect the headset operation.
If the headset has the button switch, same button is used to answer and to end a call. Pressing the button causes the XEAR output of the phone to be connected directly to the earphone and the XEAR will be pulled down. MAD recognizes the low level with HookDet input.
There is also an additional connection from MAD's HeadDet pin to an AD converter in the power supply ASIC "CCONT". This is required because MAD's HeadDet input is unusable during a call; the XMIC voltage level is set by the COBBA AUXOUT. The MAD cannot detect disconnection of the headset during a call without CCONT's help.

Figure 1. The original circuit of the headset and the main connections to the headset pins in Nokia 5100/6100 series GSM phones.

Building Example
These paragraphs show an example of the headset button mounting. There may be differences in different types of headsets, so you may have to adapt these instructions to your particular case. The original circuit schematic of the third party headset used in this example is shown in left part of figure 1.
The button should connect the XEAR (EAR, 5) pin directly to the earphone by skipping the headset capacitor. However, the button should be installed near the earphone end of the headset, not near the capacitor in the connector case.
You can solve this problem by simple wiring changes in the headset: By switching the order of the capacitor and the earphone you can connect the button as shown in figure 2! You must remember to hold the correct polarity of the capacitor. I have also connected the earphone return now to the SGND instead of GND to follow Nokia's documentation.
Figure 2. The schematic diagram of the modified headset with the answer/end call button.
The physical mounting of the button is quite easy. Use a button with normally open contacts, and with about same pin spacing as the width of the cable.
The SGND signal is available on the shield of the microphone wire. The plastic insulation of the cable is taken away as little as possible to allow pulling very small wire loops out of the cable.
The varnish on the earphone wire is scratched away and the button is soldered directly on the wires. Finally the connections are covered, for example, with epoxy glue.
© Copyright 1999, 2000, 2002 Panu Tuominen. All rights reserved. Republishing this document partially or completely is forbidden. Internet hyperlinks to this page are allowed and such linking is encouraged. You are doing everything at your own risk. See the WARNING! in the top of this page.
For example, Nokia 5110 and Nokia 6110 are 5100/6100 series phones.

Nokia Headset-Umbau

2009-12-22T09:51:00.001-08:00

Das meinem Handy (Nokia 6230i) beiliegende, kabelgebundene Headset HDS-3 hat ziemlich schlechte "Ohrstöpsel". Daher habe ich es so umgebaut, dass eine Klinkenbuchse zum Anschluss eines normalen Kopfhörer vorhanden ist. Mein Ziel war es, eine 3,5mm Klinkenbuchse einzubauen, so dass man jeden gängigen Kopfhörer anschliessen kann und trotzdem noch das Mikrofon und die Rufannahmetaste funktionsfähig bleiben.

Öffnen des Gehäuses

Zunächst habe ich das Gehäuse geöffnet, in dem auch das Mikrofon eingebaut ist. Bei meinem Headset war das Gehäuse verklebt, es lies sich aber mit einem scharfen Messer aufhebeln. Dabei brechen leider die Rastnasen ab, die das Gehäuse auch ohne Kleber zusammenhalten würden. Man muss es also später auf jeden Fall wieder verkleben. Ich habe aber auch schon andere Versionen des Headsets gesehen, die mit 4 kleinen Schrauben zusammengehalten wurde.

Das Innere des Headsets

Im inneren befindet sich eine kleine Platine mit einem Kontroller drauf. Diese ist ebenfalls mit Kleber fixiert und muss gelöst werden, um an die Anschlüsse auf der Unterseite heranzukommen.

Anschluss der Klinkenbuchse

Auf der Platine befinden sich 4 Lötpunkte, die mit R+, R-, L+ und L- gekennzeichnet sind und an denen die Ohrstöpsel angeschlossen sind. Diese lötet man nun ab. Dabei sollte man darauf achten, dass die Anschlusskabel, die zum Handy führen, nicht beschädigt oder abgelötet werden.

Die Lötpunkte auf der Rückseite der Platine

Nun habe ich die Rückseite des Gehäuses entsprechend den Pin-Abständen einer Klinkenbuchse durchbohrt, die Beinchen der Buchse durchgesteckt, auf der Innenseite des Gehäuses umgebogen und drei kurze Kabel (ca. 3 bis 4cm) angelötet. Die Kabel dürfen nicht zu lang sein, da sonst nicht genug Platz im Gehäuse bleibt, um sie unterzubringen. Wenn sie zu kurz sind, wird es hingegen immer schwieriger, sie anzulöten.

Passende Löcher für die Klinkenbuchse bohren

Dann kann man die Kabel auf der Platine angelöten. Da eine Klinkenbuchse nur 3-polig ist, muss man durch ein zusätzliches Kabel die Punkte R- und L- miteinander verbinden. Dann wird der Anschluss L+ mit dem Kontakt verbunden, der an der Klinkenbuchse ganz vorne ist, der Anschluss R+ mit dem mittleren der Klinkenbuchse und R- und L- zusammen mit dem hinteren Anschluss verbunden.

Zusammenbau

Nun kann man die Kabel vorsichtig zusammenrollen und unter der Platine unterbringen. Bevor man das Gehäuse wieder verschliesst, sollte man das Anschlusskabel, welches zum Handy führt, wieder festkleben, damit es bei Zugbelastung nicht von der Platine reisst. Das Gehäuse lässt sich dann ganz gut mit Kleber verschliessen, der auch für den Plastik-Modellbau verwendet wird.

Von nun an kann man in bester Qualität und mit seinem Lieblingskopfhörer Musik vom Handy hören und auch darüber telefonieren.

Nach dem Umbau

Nokia Free Radio Headset

2009-12-22T09:50:00.001-08:00

Nokia Free Radio Headset

Stört es dich, wenn du beim Radiohören ständig das gesamte Headset anschliessen musst!? Es geht auch anders!

Geeignet für alle Nokia-Modelle mit Pop-Port (siehe Abbildung) und integriertem UKW-Radio!

Hier findest du die Anleitung zum Bau einer Radio-Antenne, womit man ohne Headset Radio hören kann.

» Was wird benötigt:

Handystecker für den Nokia Pop-Port
etwas Draht
Diode
langes Kabel (Draht) für die Antenne

» Anleitung:

Öffne den Handystecker und löte die Diode zwischen Pin 2 und Pin 3, wobei die Sperrrichtung der Diode zu Pin 2 liegt. Bei einigen Telefone ist eine Diode nicht notwendig, so dass eine einfach Drahtbrücke ausreicht.

An Pin 14 kommt das Kabel für die Radio-Antenne. Bei der Länge der Antenne kann variiert werden. Umso kürzer, desto schlechteren Empfang. Das Kabel muss aus dem Loch des Steckers (falls vorhanden) herausgeführt werden.

Durch die Diode erkennt das Handy ein angeschlossenes Zubehör und stellt das Radio frei. Nun kannst du Radio über das Free Radio-Headset hören, ohne das gesamte Headset anzuschließen. Über die Lautsprecher-Funktion kannst du das Telefon nun auch als herkömmliches Radio benutzen.

Informationen zum Nokia Pop-Port gibt es hier.

» Permaneter Umbau:

Ene weitere Möglichkeit ist, den Umbau direkt im Telefon selbst vorzunehmen.

Dazu wird im Handy auf der Platine, wo die Pop-Port-Pins mit der Platine verunden sind, die Diode angelötet.

Der Draht für die Antnne kann wie auf dem Bild zu sehen, mithilfe von Klebeband aufgewickelt und fixiert werden.

Das Ende des Drahtes muss durch das Cover geführt und ebenfalls am Pin des Pop-Port gelötet werden.

Der Antennen-Draht passt ohne Probleme zwischen Akku und Rückschale.

Nun braucht man keinerlei Anstecker mehr und kann direkt Radio hören. Allerdings erkennt das Telefon nach dem Umbau permanent ein angeschlossenes Headset!

Nokia Headset selbst bauen

2009-12-22T09:46:00.000-08:00

Nokia Headset selbst bauen

Ein Headset dient dazu, über einen externen Kopfhörer und ein Mikrofon zu telefonieren. Nokia hat zwei Arten von Anschlüssen, um ein Headset anzuschliessen. Zum einen über die in den meisten Modellen angebrachte Klinkenbuchse und zum andere über den Anschluss-Connector, wie z.B. beim 51/61/62/63/71xx.

Optional kann ein Taster für die Rufannahme eingebaut werden. Dieser kann auch weg gelassen werden, dann muss jedoch ein Anruf über die Handytastatur angenommen werden.

» Was wird benötigt:

Lautsprecher 30 Ohm (z.B. ein alter Walkman-Kopfhörer)
Mikrofon (z.B. aus einem alten Handy/Kassettenrekorder)
Taster (für Rufannahme, optional)
Kondensator 10 nF
Handy- oder 2,5mm Klinken-Stecker

» Anleitung für 2,5mm Klinkenstecker (ältere Modelle):

» Anleitung für Handystecker:

Diese Stecker gilt für folgende Modelle:
Nokia 5110/51xx, 6110/61xx, 6210/62xx, 6310/63xx(i), 7110/71xx.

Teardown Report - Bluetooth Headset

2009-12-22T09:45:00.000-08:00

Teardown Report - Bluetooth Headset

V Three Pte Ltd
http://www.v-three.com

V3 - BTH3 Bluetooth Wireless Headset

Product Specification:
Weight 14g
Standby time 200hrs
Talk time 8hrs

I have this headset becasue it is bundled with my mobile phone, Nokia 6230i. Now I am going to teardown it.

Inside the headset, the most famous bluetooth chipset is found, which is the CSR's BlueCore2. They use the CSR's reference design layout that I found in the app's note.

However, whole industry design and the assembly seems not good. Tape is applied to hold the battery and plastic sponge is filled to fix the postion of the PCB. The QC(quailty check) is quite hand-made, they ink the good IC unit and lable "ok" on the PCB. Oh, that is from Singapore Company?

Here are the captures of the bluetooth headset.

V Three Pte Ltd

According to their registation in Global Sources, V3 is a Singapore base company established in 2003. They are bluetooth headset and accessories manufactures, they now have 70 employees in global and their current market are Asia-Pacific and America.

Cambridge Silicon Radio(CSR)

Cambridge Silicon Radio (CSR), the UK fabless semiconductor company that develope the first single-chip of bluetooth devices. CSR has a leading postion in single-chip wireless design, and their Bluetooth business ranks No.1 in global Bluetooth market with the share existing 50%

CSR was found on 1998, spun off from Cambridge Consultants. CSR's first product is Bluetooth CMOS BlueCoreTM01, the first CMOS chip integrated 2.4GHz radio baseband and microcontroller solution. In 2000, Intel Capital, the Intel's strategic investment program, invested CSR which help CSR expand and guarantee the growth of the potential Bluetooth market. Later on, Sony, Philips Ventures, ARM and Siemens joined as a investor in CSR too.

CSR's Milestone......

1998, spun off from Cambridge Consultants. March.2000, first chip shipment.
Jun.2001, CSR has shipped 1 millionth chip.
Nov.2001, CSR make a deal with Microsoft that Microsoft will put CSR Bluetooth technology in Window software.
Oct.2002, CSR has shipped 5 millionth chip.
Jun.2004, CSR delivers over $250 million revenue, 274% growth oever 2003.
Jun.2004, CSR listed on the main market of London Stock Exchange.
Nov.2004, CSR announced UniFi core, the Wi-Fi standard single-chip. UniFi-1 Portable (802.11b/g single band).

CSR's Product Line (updated to 2006)
Core. Description
BlueCore4 Compliant Bluetooth v2.0 and EDR fro both 2Mbps & 3Mbps

BlueCore4-Adio Flash
BlueCore4-Audio ROM
BlueCore4-External
BlueCore4-Flash
BlueCore4-ROM
BlueCore4-ROM sPnG
BlueCore4-Audio
BlueCore3 Compliant Bluetooth v1.2

BlueCore3-ROM sPnG
BlueCore3-Audio Flash
BlueCore3-Multimedia
BlueCore3-Multimedia External
BlueCore2 Compliant Bluetooth v1.1/v1.2

BlueCore2-ROM sPnG
BlueCore2-Audio
BlueCore2-Flash
BlueCore2-External
UniFi-2 0.13um CMOS technology

UniFi-2 Enterprise(Ext Flash): 802.11b/b/g
UniFi-2 Portable: 802.11b/g
UniFi-2 Consumer: 802.11a/b/g
BlueCore2-External

How to Make Accessories & AddOns for your Mobile (Cellular) Phone

2009-12-22T09:38:00.000-08:00

Apple iPhone Dock	This teardown, will show how to crack open the white plastic dock that comes with the original iPhone. The dock works only with the original iPhone. However, by removing the top cover of the dock, you can use the dock with other Apple products that have a 30 pin connector. So you can modify the dock to be universal.
BlueTrek Skin	Use a small blade to teardown this BlueTooth headset.
Mark I	Silly Phone Contraption: how to build a ring tone amplifier, using a small photocell and an LM324 op-amp chip.
Mark II	A cell phone ring detector made with a TLC3704 voltage comparator chip (a very low power CMOS version of an LM339).
Nokia 5100/6100	Adding an answer/end call button to a headset.
Nokia 5110/6110	A standard audio amplifier adaptor for the headset. A headset is useful device when you are outdoors. At home you may prefer speaking directly to the phone. But you can connect the phone to your hi-fi amplifier at home and play music on the line, record the calls, and use it as a "wireless microphone".
Nokia 6230	HOW-TO: Make a Nokia Pop port to female mini jack with volume control for the HDS-3 cable to the headset.
Nokia 6230i HDS-3 Headset	How to add a 3.5" jack to take a normal headset (in German).
Nokia HSU-3 Privacy HandSet	Skype handset: if you prefer to talk to traditional style handset rather than hearing the other person inside your head using stereo headsets or using the fiddly earbud, here is one solution.
Nokia Free Radio HeadSet	This HOWTO explains how to build a free radio head set for all mobile cellular phones with Pop-Port (in German).
Nokia HiFi Adaptor	A selfmade HiFi mono Cinch adaptor with schematics and parts list (in German).
Nokia 51xx/61xx/62xx/63xx/71xx	How to get a headset menue by attaching a fake headset, which is just a special short-circuit connector (in German).
Nokia 51xx/61xx/62xx/63xx/71xx	This guide describes how to build your own headset (in German).
Palm Pre TouchStone Charging Kit	This teardown shows the innards of the slick induction based charging kit.
Sony/Ericsson K750i	Headset - 3.5mm jack modding with pictures.
Sony/Ericsson HPM-20 (Portable Stereo Handsfree Kit)	Add 3.5mm earphone support.
V-Three Pte Ltd V3 - BTH3 Bluetooth Wireless Headset	Teardown report with disassembly pictures of a wireless headset.

How to Build or Repair Cellular Phone Chargers

2009-12-22T09:36:00.000-08:00

Cell Phone Charger ConversionTake an old cell phone charger e.g. from a Sony/Ericsson phone, check the output voltage against the USB specs, check the pinouts and connect a USB extension cable to the charger. USB to Nokia Safe ChargerThis simple project shows you how to make a USB powered Nokia cell phone charger. The advantage is that it weighs much less than the bulky AC adaptor, and can be used wherever you have a computer or a laptop. Universal USB ChargerMake a USB phone charger for almost any cell phone. Take an Altoids tin, an old wall/car charger that fits your cell phone, a male USB connector, a 220 Ohm resistor (red-red-brown), a LED (color is up to you), a power switch and connect them all together. Car Lighter USB HubMake a portable, multicharging device for your electronics, that will let you recharge your stuff in your car from a cheap USB hub and a car lighter cell phone recharger.

How to Upgrade, Repair, Disassemble a (Cellular) Phone Battery

2009-12-22T09:31:00.000-08:00

Do you want to repair or upgrade the battery of your mobile (cell) phone? Here are links to HOWTOs, FAQs and manuals.

Motorola T-2288	How to replace the battery pack.
Nokia 3210	Working with normal AA-batteries.
Nokia 6600	How to replace the BL-5C battery with a BL-6C.
Nokia (misc. models)	How to fix overheating BL-5C batteries. There are two steps to find out if the Nokia battery you have on your phone has a potential to overheat or shudder explode.
Panasonic EB-G520	How to repair the battery pack.
USB Battery	A selfmade USB battery to power portable devices like mobile phones and media players.

Akku Informationen und Pflege

2009-12-22T09:26:00.001-08:00

Akku Informationen und Pflege

Ein Akkumulator (kurz: Akku) ist der Name für eine Batterie, welche die Eigenschaft hat entladen und oft wieder aufgeladen zu werden. Durch den Akku bekommt jedes Mobiltelefon seine Stromversorgung. Mit der Zeit wurden bzw. werden die Abmessungen der Akkus immer geringer, die Speicherkapaziztät allerdings immer größer. Doch nicht nur die Kapazität eines Akkus, auch die Stromaufnahme eines Geräts spielt hierbei für die Ausdauer eines Akkus eine große Rolle.

Wie unschwer zu erkennen besitzen viel Akkus weitere Anschlüsse. Die Akkus in Nokia Mobiletelefonen besitzen ausser den blichen Plus- (+) und Minus- (-) Polen weitere Anschlüsse, für Temperaturangeben und Füllstatus des Akkus.

» Verschieden Arten eines Akku:

Akkus gibt es in verschiedenen Ausführungen und Bauformen, sowie mit verschiedenen Ladungs-Speicherverfahren:

Nickel-Cadmium (Ni-Cd)
Nickekl-Metallhydrid (Ni-Mh)
Li-Ionen (Li-Ion)
Li-Polymer (Li-Pol)
Brennstoffzelle *

* Bei einer Brennstoffzelle wird Energie in Form einer chemischen Reaktion (z.B. durch das alkoholische Methanol) gewonnen.

Die Kapazität eines Akku wird in mAh (Milli-Ampere / Stunde) angegeben. Dieser Wert gibt an, wieviel Strom der Akku dem handy zur Verfügung stellen kann, und ist mehr oder weniger auschlaggebend für die laufzeit des Telefons. Hier gilt:

SIM-Karten für Dual-SIM zerschneiden

2009-12-22T09:23:00.000-08:00

Duale SIM-Karten erringen zunehmend großes Interesse an den Handy-Nutzern, welche mehre SIM-Karten gleichzeitig im Handy nutzen möchten. Besondere Beliebtheit verschaffen sich die neuen Dual-SIM Karten, in Form einer herkömlichen SIM-Karte, so dass man keine dicken Rückschalen oder sonstige Adapter in das Handy quetschen muss, um sie unterzubringen.
Bei den Dual-SIM Adaptern handelt es sich um Adapter in der Größe einer Standard-SIM-Karte, welche einfach anstelle einer SIM-Karte in das Handy gelegt wird!

Neben vielen Vorteilen dieser Adapter, bringt es einen auschalgebenden Nachteil:
Die SIM-Karten müssen zerschnitten werden, so dass sie beide in einen Adapter eingelegt werden können.

Für viele erübrigt sich dieses Thema schon an der Stelle, wo man erfährt, dass man seine SIM zerschneiden muss und wohlmöglich zerstören kann.

Hiermit möchte ich jedoch auf das sehr geringe Risiko hinweisen, das beim Zerschneiden der SIM-Karte besteht.

SIM-Karten bestehen größtenteils aus Kunststoff, in denen ein kleiner Chip untergebracht ist! Dieser Chip befindet sich direkt hinter den SIM-Kontakten. Allerdings ist dieser Chip noch weitaus kleiner und bildet nur einen kleinen Teil hinter den Kontakten!

Hier sieht man ein Bild eines freiliegenden Chips in einer SIM-Karte mit seinen Kontaktflächen. Wie man erkenn kann, ist der SIM-Chip selbst sehr viel kleiner als man denken könnte. Wie man sieht ist der Chip mittig der SIM-Kontakte untergebracht und ist gerade mal so groß wie die Breite eines einzelnen Kontaktes!

Die Fläche der Kontakte ist durch die Industrie genormt und fällt nur deshalb etwas größer aus. Durch kleine Leiterverbindungen wird der SIM-Chip mit den Kontaktflächen verbunden. Der Chip ist zusätzlich durch einen Guss aus durchsichtigem Kunststoff geschützt.

Allein jetzt sollte einem schon klar werden, dass die "SIM" selbst beim Zerschneiden kaum zerstört werden kann, da man beim Zerschneiden der SIM nicht annähernd so viel oder so nahe an am Chip schneiden muss!

» SIM-Karten-Umbau:

Es hört sich seltsam an, doch besondere Vorkehrungen vor dem Zerschneiden müssen nicht unbedingt getroffen werden. Allerdings sollte man sich alle Inhalte, die in einem gekauften Dual-SIM-Adapter enthalten sind zurechtlegen.

In einem Standard-Set sollten folgende Inhalte enthalten sein:

Dual-SIM-Adapter
Abdeckung für den Adapter
(evtl. 2 Stück, es wird lediglich einer verwendet)
Klebeschablonen fürs Zerschneiden
(sollten NICHT benutzt werden, da sie meist nicht übereinstimmen!)
Plastikschalen in denen man eine ausgeschnittene SIM-Karte wieder in die ursprüngliche Größe wandeln kann inkl. entsprechenden Klebestreifen zum Befestigen
Evtl. Schaumstoffklebestreifen, um die zerschnittene SIM-Karten zu fixieren

Nun sollte man sich eine scharfe Schere zurechtlegen, mit der man die SIM-Karte ausschneidet. Es funktioniert auch mit einer stumpfen Schere, allerdings sollte sie scharf genug sein, um kleinste Unebenheiten sauber abschneiden zu können. Außerdem wird in den meisten Fällen ein minimales Nachschneiden erforderlich sein, damit die ausgeschnittenen SIM-Karten im Adapter ordnungsgemäß sitzen.

Es gibt entsprechende Stanzwerkzeuge für das Ausstanzen des Chips, jedoch wird sich dieses Werkzeug für die meisten nicht lohen, da es auch mit einigen Mehrkosten verbunden ist!

Eventuelle sollte man beim ersten Male eine alte oder unbenutzte SIM-Karte zum probieren benutzen. Es kommt des öfteren vor, dass man an den falschen Seiten schneidet, oder zu oft nach schneidet, so dass der ausgeschnittene Chip später im Adapter schwimmt, welches den Betrieb deutlich erschweren kann!

Als erstes legt man die SIM zurecht und achtet dabei auf welcher Seite sich die abgeschrägte Kerbe befindet.
Genau an dieser Seite wird auch eine Kerbe im ausgeschnittenen Chip geschnitten, dass sie in den Adapter passt!

Es empfiehlt sich NICHT, die bei liegenen Aufkleber zu benutzen, an denen man den aufgezeichneten Rändern entlang schneiden muss.
Diese Schablonen taugen in den meisten Fällen nichts und führen dazu, dass man den ausgeschnittenen Chip noch weiter zerschneiden muss. Demnach wird er immer unnötig kleiner und wird später beim Einlegen im SIM-Schacht schwimmen und für erhebliche Probleme sorgen!!!

Hier sieht man, wie der SIM-Chip tatsächlich ausgeschnitten werden muss!
Um auf Nummer sicher zu gehen, sollte man die SIM-Karte vorher einmal mit den Kontakten des Adapter vergleichen und genau zu wissen, wo geschnitten werden muss, damit die Kontakte auch übereinstimmen!

Nun wird mit der Schere an einer Seite angefangen den Plastikrand abzuschneiden. Jetzt schon kann man die SIM-Karte an die Kontakte des Adapters halten, um die Übereinstimmung der Kontakte sicher zu stellen.
Dann wird der Reihe nach jede Seite abgeschnitten, bis man nur noch den Chip in der Hand hält.
Auch hier nach jeder Seite wieder die Kontakte prüfen. Wie schon gesagt wird es erforderliche sein, die Ränder etwas nachzuschneiden. Hier macht sich eine schärfere Schere bezahlt.

Wenn der SIM-Chip nun frei geschnitten wurde, muss die Kerbe an der Stelle eingeschnitten werden, an der sie sich an der Originalen SIM-Karte auch befunden hat.

Auch alle Ecken der SIM, sollten ganz leicht abgerundet werden, dass der SIM-Chip auch korrekt im Adapter eingelegt werden kann und nicht aneckt oder verhakt!

Noch sollte die SIM-Karte die komplette Plastikhülle auf der Oberseite besitzen. Es kann vorkommen, je nach SIM, dass diese sich lockert und sogar fast abfällt. Man kann auch schon nach dem Schneiden feststellen, dass man quasi durch einen kleinen Schlitz an der Seite in die SIM Karte hineinschauen kann, das alles macht überhaupt nichts aus! Es ist nicht schlimm, falls der Plastikmantel über dem Chip abfällt oder mit Nachhelfen entfernt wurde, allerdings sollte man ihn dann mit einem Stück klebbarem Gummi versehen, damit er hinterher im Adapter auch Halt hat und an die Kontakte gedrückt wird!

» Adapter testen:

Wenn nun die erste SIM-Karte die korrekte Form hat, kann sie zum Testen in den Adapter eingelegt werden, um die Funktion im Handy zu testen. Hier sollte der Chip allerdings in den Schacht 1 eingelegt werden, da dieser der Erfahrung nach als Standard festgelegt ist!
Auch der Metalldeckel sollte beim Testen ruhig aufgeschoben werden, damit der Chip auch festen Sitzt hat!

Es reicht schon, das Handy anzuschalten, und darauf zu warten, dass die PIN-Code Abfrage erscheint. Dann ist die Karte nicht defekt und sitzt korrekt im Adapter! Wenn allerdings nur eine SIM gestestet wird, sollte man diese auch mal in den zweiten Schacht einlegen, um sicher zu stellen, dass der richtige Aktiv ist!

Sollte dennoch beim Einlegen "SIM einlegen" oder ähnliche Meldung auf dem Display erscheinen, dann liegt die Karte nicht korrekt im Adapter und muss eventuell nachbearbeitet werden, damit die Kontaktflächen übereinstimmen!

Ich empfehle beim ersten Umbau es zuerst bei einer Karte solange zu versuchen, bis sie einwandfrei läuft. Die Erfahrungen kann man dann auf die zweite übertragen und man kann sich so manches Problem, welches bei der ersten Karte noch auftrat, ersparen.

Wenn anschließend die zweite SIM ausgeschnitten wurde und in dem Adapter liegt, muss nun getestet werden, ob der Adapter auch ordnungsgemäß umschaltet!

» Umschalten der SIM-Karten:

Falls der Adapter nicht über das Menü umgeschaltet werden kann, muss das Handy zu Testen ein und wieder ausgeschaltet werden, damit die Aktivität der SIM-Karten gewechselt wird. Nach einem Neustart des Geräts sollte also die jeweils andere SIM aktiv sein!

Die neuere Generation der Adapter sind digital geregelt und speisen mittels SIM-Application einen weiteren Menüpunkt in das Menü!
Hier erhält man neben weiteren Einstellungen, die Möglichkeit die SIM während des Betriebes zu wechseln. Sobald man den Menüpunkt aufruft, erscheinen beide SIM-Karten. Die aktive SIM wird meistens mit einem Sternchen gekennzeichnet! Durch Auswählen der Anderen wird die Einstellung dann unmittelbar übernommen und die SIM wird aktualisiert.

How to Upgrade, Repair, Disassemble a Mobile (Cellular) Phone

2009-12-22T09:17:00.000-08:00

Need to repair your mobile (cellular) phone? Need to fix a broken display? Want to know what chips are actually inside your mobile phone? Or just in the mood of modding your mobile gadget? Here is a collection of links to take apart instructions, disassembly pictures, upgrade and repair manuals, as well as do-it-yourself (DIY) tips and tricks for mobile phones and smart phones from different manufacturers.

Dual-SIM	How to cut a single SIM card into two halfes for Dual-SIM (in German).
SIM Card Earrings	Keep all those old phone call memories close to your ears.
SIM Card Cutting	There are two sizes of SIM cards, the only difference is the plastic holding the card. If you have a large card (credit-card size), and need a small one, it is possible to cut the plastic to make it fit a small size holder. The reverse of the process is trickier, but also explained in this HOWTO.
SIM Card Reader for Parallel Port	How to build a SIM card reader: parts list and schematics (in German).

Do-It-Yourself Mobile (Cellular) Phone Repairing, Upgrading and Modding

2009-12-22T09:15:00.000-08:00

Need to repair or clean your cellular phone? Need to fix a broken display? Want to know what chips are actually inside your mobile phone or SmartPhone? Missing a service manual? Or just in the mood of modding or hacking your mobile gadget? Here is a collection of free take apart instructions, disassembly pictures, upgrade and repair manuals, as well as do-it-yourself (DIY) tips and tricks for mobile phones.

Core.	Description
BlueCore4	Compliant Bluetooth v2.0 and EDR fro both 2Mbps & 3Mbps BlueCore4-Adio Flash BlueCore4-Audio ROM BlueCore4-External BlueCore4-Flash BlueCore4-ROM BlueCore4-ROM sPnG BlueCore4-Audio
BlueCore3	Compliant Bluetooth v1.2 BlueCore3-ROM sPnG BlueCore3-Audio Flash BlueCore3-Multimedia BlueCore3-Multimedia External
BlueCore2	Compliant Bluetooth v1.1/v1.2 BlueCore2-ROM sPnG BlueCore2-Audio BlueCore2-Flash BlueCore2-External
UniFi-2	0.13um CMOS technology UniFi-2 Enterprise(Ext Flash): 802.11b/b/g UniFi-2 Portable: 802.11b/g UniFi-2 Consumer: 802.11a/b/g BlueCore2-External

MOBILE REPAIRING

Nokia 3220 Mic Microphone Ways Problem

Original iPhone Dock Teardown

Steps

Step 1 — Teardown

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

Step 8

Step 9

Step 10

Step 11

Bluetrek Skin Teardown

Step 1 — Teardown

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Step 7

Step 8

Silly Phone Contraption

Subtitle: You want your cell phone to do what?!!

Motivation

Electronics

Mechanical

Lesson

Things To Do

References

Mark II Cell Phone Ring Detector

Introduction

Circuits

Power-Up Delay

Light Detector

Timer

Relay

Memory

LED Flasher

Mechanical

PC Board

References

NuukiaWorld project

NuukiaWorld project

Adding an answer/end call button to a headset

The original Nokia headset for the 5100/6100 series is equipped with a button on the microphone. The button may be used to answer an incoming call and to end a call. Unfortunately all headsets do not have such button. The target in this project is to install the button to a headset.

Headset Interface

Figure 1. The original circuit of the headset and the main connections to the headset pins in Nokia 5100/6100 series GSM phones.

Building Example

Figure 2. The schematic diagram of the modified headset with the answer/end call button.

Nokia Headset-Umbau

Öffnen des Gehäuses

Anschluss der Klinkenbuchse

Zusammenbau

Nokia Free Radio Headset

Nokia Free Radio Headset

» Was wird benötigt:

» Anleitung:

» Permaneter Umbau:

Nokia Headset selbst bauen

Nokia Headset selbst bauen

» Was wird benötigt:

» Anleitung für 2,5mm Klinkenstecker (ältere Modelle):

» Anleitung für Handystecker:

Teardown Report - Bluetooth Headset

Teardown Report - Bluetooth Headset

V Three Pte Ltd

Cambridge Silicon Radio(CSR)

How to Make Accessories & AddOns for your Mobile (Cellular) Phone

How to Build or Repair Cellular Phone Chargers

How to Upgrade, Repair, Disassemble a (Cellular) Phone Battery

Akku Informationen und Pflege

Akku Informationen und Pflege

» Verschieden Arten eines Akku:

SIM-Karten für Dual-SIM zerschneiden

» SIM-Karten-Umbau:

» Adapter testen:

» Umschalten der SIM-Karten: